Method of making a cuff and attachment of same to a sleeve



Nov. 6, 1956 G. N. JEFFcocK ETAI.

I METHOD oF MAKING A cum" AND ATTACHMENT 0F SAME'TO A SLEEVE: Filed Aug. 18, 195.4

k wIIIzIL I United States Patent NIETHOD OF MAKING A CUlII"I AND ATTACH- MENT OF SAlVIE TO A SLEEVE George N. Jeifcock, Cohoes, and Albert E. Wagar, Al-

bany, N. Y., assiguors to Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application August 18, 1954, Serial No. 450,667

3 Claims. (Cl. 2--123) 'Ihis invention relates to cuffs for garments and more particularly to their construction and manner of attachment. 4

Heretofore it was customary to sew together wrong side out, face and lining layers of fabric required in the formation of a cuff, which required that they subsequently be turned right side out, after which they were attached to the free end of the sleeve 'in a most cumbersome method. The completion of such a cuff required not less than eight individual operations.

An object of this invention is to provide an improved cuff which may be made with a considerably reduced number of manufacturing operations and a saving of material; which will be easier to iron; and which will be attractive in appearance, and relatively simple; practical and inexpensive in construction.

Another object of this invention is to provide an improved method of making a cu and attaching it to the free end of a sleeve, which will require a considerably reduced number of operations in itsgmanufacture, and in its attachment to the free end of a sleeve; Vwhich may be performed by operators of less skill than formerly,` which will permit attachment of the cuff without: the necessity`v and the novel features will bef particularly pointed out hereinafter in connection with the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawing:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the superposed face and lining layers of the cuff in their assembled relationship prior to turning in of the marginal edges.

Fig. 2 is an end elevation of the face and lining layers shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a plan view ofthe face and lining layers shown in Fig. l, but after said superposed layers have had their marginal edges turned inwardly to represent an intermediate step in the formation of thecuff;

Fig. 4 is a sectional elevation through one edge portion of the superposed layers after the marginal edges thereof have been turned inwardly, the section being taken approximately along the line A-A of Fig. 3;

Fig. 5 is a sectional elevation of the same superposed layers after the marginal edges thereof have been turned inwardly, with the section taken approximately along the line B-B of Fig. 2; K Fig. 6 is a plan View of the face and lining layers with inturned margin edges, but with one of the face layers removed therefrom; Y y

Fig. 7 is a sectional elevation of the same, with the section taken along the line C-C of Fig. 6;

' Fig. 8 is a plan of the face layer which was removed from its former superposed relationship shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 9 is a sectional elevation of said face layer, the section being taken along the line D-D of Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a plan view of the rearranged superposed inward-spacing along the stitching 5. l .The stitching 4 `and 5 serves to unite the various layers ice face and lining layers stitched together ready for attachment to the sleeve; v

Fig. l1 is a sectional elevation of the same, the section being taken along the line E-E of Fig. 10.

Fig. 12 is a plan view of the completed cuff attached to the free end of the sleeve inserted therein;

Fig. 13 is a sectional elevation of one edge of the completed cuff, the section being taken along the line G-G of Fig. 12; and Y Fig. 14 is another sectional elevation of the completed cuff with the section taken along the line F--F `of Fig. l2.

In the illustrated embodiment of the invention, a lining layer 1 is superposed and aligned on two face layers 2 and 3 Figs. l and 2() in the position in which their marginal edges will be creased. After the assembly of the fabrics in the aforesaid superposed' relationship, and while they preferably remain in that superposed relationship, the marginal edges thereof are turned inwardly together over yupon the exposed face of the lining layer, as shown in Figs. 3, 4 and 5. One of the face layers, preferably the bottom face layer 3 of Fig. 8, is removed from its assembled relationship with the other layers, inverted, and placed upon the lining'layer of the still assembled lining layer and other face layer with its inturned edges aligned with and abutting those of the other face layer, as in Figs. 10 and ll. The side edges of these newly assembled layers, and the end edge which is to be the free end of the cuff, are then connected by stitching 4 running along the side edges, and stitching 5 running along the free end edge of the cuff, as shown in Figs. l0, 11 and 12. Preferably the stitching 4 at each of the side edges, starts at the actual corner edge, as at 6 (Figs. 10 and 12) extends in an oblique direction inwardly and then slightly inwardly from, but parallel to, the actual side edge of the culf, and continues in this of the cull? together and by havingthe stitching 4, divefrging outwardly to the corner, at the end to be attached tothe sleeve, one is able to insert a sleever7 between the layers of the unstitched edge and have the sleeve extend for the full width of the cuff as shown in Fig. l2. The free end of the sleeve 7 is inserted into the culf along the previously unstitched edge 8, by opening the cuff along this edge 8, and iusertingthe end of.

sleeve 7 between the inturned edges of the face layers, so that the end of sleeve 7 if extended into the cuff beyond the inturnedl edges would lie between the face layer 3 which was last applied and the lining layer 1, as shown in Fig. 14. While the sleeve is so inserted into the cuff a line of stitching 9 is applied to the cuff along this previously unstitched edge 8, lwith the thread of the stitch passing through all of the layers of the cu including their inturned edges and the end of sleeve 7, so as to stitch all of these layers together as shown in Fig. 14. This line of stitching 9 is parallel to, but preferably spaced slightly inwardly from the edge 8 by approximately the same amount that the stitching 4 and 5 was spaced from the extreme edge of the cuff. The cuff may be provided with suitable means to fasten the side edges together, either before or after the cuif is attached to the sleeve. ln the example illustrated, the cuff is provided near one side with a buttonhole 16 and near its other side with a button 11, but other means for'fastening the sides of the cutf together may be'employed, since the details thereof are not a part of this invention.

In this type of cul construction the end of the sleeve 7 which is inserted into the ,cuff and stitched thereto is free of shirring, which greatly enhances the appearance of the cuff and simplifiesy the operation of attaching it to the sleeve. The free end of sleeve 7 is therefore tapered from the normal width down to the width of 3 the cuff and lies flat or smooth from one side of the cuff to the other. Thus, this construction of cuff and attachment with this smooth, unshirred end of the sleeve, makes the sleeve and cuff easier to iron or press after laundering, and generally presents a more attractive appearance.

ln order to prevent corners that are too bulky when the marginal edges of the face and lining layer are turned in, the lining layer 1 preferably has the two corners ft2 of Fig. l which meet the sleeve beveled off. The other corners of the lining layer are also cut off shorter but arcuately as at 13, see Fig. l. When the layers are folded over along the top in Fig. l, the lining layer will not be folded at their upper corners, and therefore one will have a corner that is of minimum possible thickness, not greatly different from that of the remainder of the cuff. The corners 13 of Fig. l are also cut a little short and arcuately so that when the arcuate edges of all the layers are folded over, the lining layer will have its turned edge terminating a little short of the turned edges of the face layers upon which the lining layer is superposed. Therefore, where the inturned edge is gathered slightly, as at 14, the inturned edge of the face layer 3 will overrun the inturned edge of the lining layer and iit down closely to the body of the lining layer l.

The cut off corners 12 and 13 of the lining layers, by giving corners which are of minimum thickness, facilitate the 1stitching operation, because if there is too great or abrupt a change in the thickness during the formation of a line of stitching, difficulty with breakage of the needle is sometimes encountered, but with this construction by which the thickness at the corners is kept at a minimum, the diiculty from needle breakage is substantially eliminated. It is also easier to control the path of the needle during the stitching operation when there is a minimum abruptness of change in the thickness of the layers being united by stitching.

In making a cuff in accordance with this invention and attaching it to a sleeve, one first cuts the lining and face layers to the proper size and shape -as shown in Fig. l and places them in a superposed relation, as shown in Figs. l and 2, in which two face layers are superposed and then a lining layer 1 is disposed upon those two layers face to face, with the edges aligned as shown in Fig. l. The marginal edges of these three superposed layers are all then turned inwardly. This can be performed by hand, but commercially it is done by a folding machine which turns the edges inwardly in the proper sequence or simultaneously to form the article shown One then removes one of the face in Figs. 3 to 5. layers 2 or 3, preferably the expo-sed face layer 3 which is on the bottom of the stack, and turns it end for end, or inverts it, so that the face against which its inturned edges abut will face the lining layer ll, as shown in Figs. and l1. The lines of stitching 4 and 5 are then applied to unite the cuff layers together, but leaving the layers unconnected along the edge 8. The sleeve end is then inserted between the layers along the edge 8, and the stitching 9 then applied to unite the sleeve to the cuff, and the cuff layers -along the edge 3 to each other as well as to the sleeve 7. The fastening means such as the buttonhole 10 and the button lll, for eX- ample, may be applied to the cuff just before or after the cuff is applied to the end of sleeve 7. While the two face layers 2 and 3 preferably have their edges turned inwardly in the same single operation in which the edges of the lining are turned inwardly, it will be understood that, while less desirable, one of the face layers could be folded separately and the other face layer folded with the lining layer. With this method a very attractive cuff is provided which requires considerably fewer manufacturing operations than have heretofore been used or considered, and one can successfully and advantageously employ an unshirred or gatherless sleeve end in the attachment of the sleeve to the cuff.

It will be understood that various changes in the details, materials and arrangements of parts, and in the steps which have been herein particularly mentioned, may be made by those skilled in the art, within the principle and scope of the invention as expressed in the yappended claims.

We claim:

l. The method of making a culf and attaching it to a garment sleeve, which comprises superposing two face layers and a lining layer in a stack in the lorder named, with the outside faces of the face layers downward, turning all marginal edges of the superposed layers together inwardly upon the lining layer, removing the lower layer from the bottom of the stack, turning it end for end, and disposing it upon the other layers in the stack, with its inner face abutting the lining layer ,and its marginal edge-s aligned with those of the other layers, then stitching together the three layers, so assembled, along the side edges and also the edge which is to be the free end edge of the cuff, to unite all of the layers in this relationship, then inserting the free end of the sleeve between the inturned marginal edges of the face layers at the unstitched end of the cuff, then stitching together said unstitched end of the cuff and the inserted sleeve end.

2. The method of making a cuff and attaching it to a garment sleeve which comprises superposing face layers and lining layers of fabric of approximately co-eX- tensive size, turning inwardly the marginal edges .of all of the superposed layers while they remain in their same superposed relation, removing one of the face layers from its superposed relationship, inverting it and placing it with its inturned marginal edges in alignment with the inturned marginal edges of the remaining superposed layers, upon these remaining Vlayers and with its inner face abutting the interlining layers, then stitching together the layers so assembled along their side edges and the edge which is to 'be the free edge of the cuff within` the limits of the inturned marginal edges, thereby uniting all of `the -superposed layers, then inserting the free end of the sleeve between the inturned marginal edges of the face layers at the unstitched edge of the cuff, then stitching together said unstitched edge of the cuff, Vand also the sleeve end so inserted, within the limits of the inturned marginaledges along the sleeve end.

3. The method of making a cuif and attaching it to a garment sleeve which comprises super-posing face Vlayers and lining layers of approximately co-extensive size, turning inwardly all the marginal edges of the face and lining layers, inverting one of the face layers and placing it face to face against the lining layer, with its inturned marginal edges in alignment with the inturned marginal edges of the other face layer and lining layer so that the inner face of the inverted face layer abuts the lining layer, then stitching together the layers so assembled along their side edges and the edge whichis to be the free edge of the Vcuff within the limits of the inturned marginal edges, thereby uniting all iof the superposed layers, then inserting the free end of the sleeve between the inturned marginal edges of the face layers at the unstitched edge of the cuff, then stitching together said unstitched edge .of the cuff, and also the sleeve end so inserted within the limits of the inturned marginal edges along the sleeve end. Y

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 

